Ravinder Bhogal
Ravinder Bhogal is a woman of many talents. A former beauty journalist, she gained prominence as a cook when she was crowned the new Fanny Cradock by Gordon Ramsay on his show The F Word. Since then, she has published her debut cookbook, Cook in Boots and her follow up book Jikoni: Proudly Inauthentic Recipes from an Immigrant Kitchen 2019, written countless articles on food and culture. She opened her first restaurant, Jikoni, in Marylebone in September 2016. Ravinder’s food spans flavours from the Far East, India and South Asia, the Middle East, East Africa and Britain.
During lockdown Ravinder was one of the first creatives to open a takeout and Jikoni takeaway: Comfort and Joy was born. It was one of our favourite meals all lockdown.
CAULIFLOWER POPCORN WITH BLACK VINEGAR DIPPING SAUCE
Serves 4 as a starter
1 cauliflower, cut into small florets
Small handful of Thai basil leaves
6 spring onions, thinly sliced
2 red chillies, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Groundnut oil, for deep-frying
Lime wedges, to serve
For the dipping sauce
100ml Chinkiang black vinegar
80ml light soy sauce
1 red chilli, finely chopped
Small thumb of ginger, finely grated
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
1 tsp caster sugar
1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
For the batter
2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
2 tsp black peppercorns
2 tsp sea salt
200g plain flour
4 tbsp cornflour
About 300ml ice-cold sparkling water
Deep-frying is like the icing sugar of cookery – it just makes everything taste so much better! This crisp, battered manifestation of the humble cauli is based on one of the dishes I can never resist when I go to a Chinese restaurant: salt and pepper squid. The batter is laced with mouth-tingling Sichuan peppercorns, which are dry-roasted to tease out their fragrance and flavour, along with some more assertive black peppercorns for a bit of heat. Importantly, the popcorn should really be scarfed as soon as it hits the plate.
To make the dipping sauce, simply whisk together all the ingredients. For the batter, heat a dry frying pan over medium heat and toast the peppercorns until they are aromatic. Tip into a pestle and mortar, along with the salt, and crush to a coarse powder. Empty out into a mixing bowl, add both flours and mix well. Now whisk in the sparkling water, adding just enough to make a batter with a double-cream consistency, and being careful not to overbeat.
Fill a large, heavy-based saucepan a third full with the deep-frying oil. Heat the oil to 180°C – if you don’t have a thermometer, you will know the oil is ready when a cube of bread turns golden brown in 20 seconds. Dip the pieces of cauliflower into the batter, one at a time, letting the excess drip off, and deep-fry until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Dip the basil leaves in batter and fry in the same way. When you have finished frying the cauliflower and basil leaves, carefully pour out most of the oil from the pan, leaving just a few tablespoons. Place over medium–high heat and flash-fry the spring onions, chillies and garlic for a minute or so, until the garlic is just beginning to colour. Drain on kitchen paper, scatter over the cauliflower and toss. Serve immediately, with lime wedges for squeezing and the dipping sauce alongside.